Okay let's be real – figuring out what to do in Glacier National Park can feel overwhelming. That first time I rolled up to Apgar Village, map in hand, I just stood there staring at those jagged peaks thinking "Where do I even start?" After five summers exploring every corner (and making all the mistakes), here's the unfiltered guide I wish I'd had. Forget generic lists – we're talking trail secrets, where the moose actually hang out, and how to avoid parking lot meltdowns.
Hiking: Where Boots Meet Dirt
Glacier's trails? They're the main event. But not all paths are created equal. Last August I wasted three hours on a "moderate" trail that turned out to be a rocky scramble – my knees haven't forgiven me. Learn from my blunders.
Iconic Trails You Can't Miss
Highline Trail (11.8 miles one-way): Starts at Logan Pass. That first mile along the Garden Wall? Pure theater. You'll grip the cable rail with one hand and snap photos with the other. Saw a mountain goat family doing acrobatics on the cliffs last July. Pack layers – weather flips faster than a pancake here.
Grinnell Glacier (10.6 miles roundtrip): My personal favorite. That milky turquoise lake at the end? Worth every switchback. Pro tip: Take the 8:30am shuttle boat from Many Glacier Hotel ($35 roundtrip) to shave off 3.4 miles. Watch for grizzlies near Swiftcurrent Lake – I've spotted them twice near the trailhead.
Hidden Gems Most Visitors Skip
Pitamakan-Dawson Loop (19 miles): Crazy commitment but holy views. Did this last fall when larches turned gold. Saw two other hikers all day. Requires backcountry permit ($7 online).
Avalanche Lake (4.6 miles roundtrip): Perfect when you're tired or have kids. That boardwalk through cedars feels prehistoric. Get there before 7am or prepare for Disneyland-level crowds.
| Trail | Length (miles) | Difficulty | Must-See Feature | Best Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hidden Lake Overlook | 2.7 roundtrip | Easy | Mountain goats at overlook | July-Aug AM |
| Iceberg Lake | 9.7 roundtrip | Moderate | Floating icebergs in lake | Late July-Sept |
| Cracker Lake | 12.8 roundtrip | Hard | Blue-green glacial water | Aug-early Sept |
| St. Mary Falls | 1.7 roundtrip | Easy | Tiered turquoise waterfalls | May-Oct |
Trail Truth Bomb: "Moderate" in Glacier means "you'll feel it tomorrow." Trail status changes hourly – check the NPS site before heading out. Saw three groups turned back by rangers at Siyeh Pass last month due to bear activity.
Scenic Drives: Your Windshield Safari
Look, not everyone wants to hike 10 miles. Glacier gets this – that's why they built the most ridiculous roads imaginable.
Going-to-the-Sun Road: The Main Attraction
This 50-mile engineering marvel requires strategy. During peak season (July-Aug), you need a vehicle reservation ($2 recreation.gov fee) between 6am-3pm. Learned this hard way in 2022 – showed up at 9am and got turned away. Pro moves:
- Enter before 6am (no reservation needed)
- Book shuttle tickets months ahead ($1 reservation fee + $35 adult fare)
- Top stops: Jackson Glacier Overlook (best glacier view), Big Bend (waterfalls galore), Logan Pass (wildlife central)
Honestly? Driving this feels like piloting a spaceship through the Alps. Those stone guardrails? They're lower than your car door. Don't lean out for selfies.
Other Routes Worth the Gas
Many Glacier Road: Pothole paradise but worth it. Saw a black bear cub tumbling down a hillside like a fuzzy bowling ball here last spring. Road often closes at Swiftcurrent due to congestion – arrive before 7am.
Two Medicine Valley: My go-to when Going-to-the-Sun feels overwhelming. That view of Rising Wolf Mountain? Better than half the postcards. Boat tours ($19-$27) run by Glacier Park Boats let you skip hiking to waterfalls.
Reality Check: Parking at Logan Pass is Thunderdome. Arrived at 6:15am last August and got the last spot. After 7am? Expect circling vultures (minivans).
Water Adventures: Beyond Selfies at Lakes
Glacier's lakes look photoshopped. But staring isn't enough – get on the water.
Boat Tours That Don't Suck
Glacier Park Boat Company runs vintage 1920s wooden boats. Did the Lake McDonald cruise ($25 adult) – skipper told stories about Prohibition-era bootleggers using the lake. More fun than expected.
DIY Kayaking: Rented from Glacier Outfitters ($55/day) at Apgar. Paddling Lake McDonald at sunrise with ospreys diving? Spiritual experience. Water's cold year-round – don't flip.
Swimming (For Polar Bears)
Jumped into Bowman Lake once. Felt like getting stabbed with ice daggers. Water temps rarely hit 60°F even in August. Stick to dipping toes unless you're training for Antarctica.
Wildlife Safaris: Spotting the Locals
Glacier isn't a zoo. You need strategy to see big players.
| Animal | Best Spots | When to Look | Safety Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Grizzly Bears | Many Glacier Valley, Logan Pass | Dawn/Dusk in summer | Carry bear spray (not optional) |
| Mountain Goats | Highline Trail, Hidden Lake | Midday on cliffs | Stay 25+ yards away |
| Moose | Fishercap Lake, Waterton Valley | Early mornings near water | They charge faster than you think |
| Bighorn Sheep | Going-to-the-Sun Road cliffs | Afternoon sun | Never block traffic for photos |
That time at Fishercap Lake? Watched a bull moose slurp aquatic plants for 45 minutes while tourists whispered like it was church. Bring binoculars – mine are Vortex Diamondback 10x42 ($180) and worth every penny.
Bear Spray 101: Rent from Glacier Outfitters ($10/day) if flying. Canister expires every 3 years – don't buy used. Practice drawing it (safety on!) before hitting trails. Saw a guy accidentally spray his hiking buddy near Grinnell Glacier – not funny in bear country.
Camping vs Lodging: Crash Pads for Every Budget
Sleeping in Glacier isn't cheap or easy. Here's the real scoop.
Campgrounds: Where the Party Is (Sometimes Too Much)
Many Glacier Campground ($23/night): Prime location but fills by 7am. Generator noise drove me insane last visit – choose tent-only sections.
Fish Creek Campground ($40/night with hookups): Only RV spot with lake views. Book exactly 6 months out on recreation.gov at 8am MT.
Historic Lodges: Splurge-Worthy
Many Glacier Hotel ($300-$500/night): Feels like a Swiss chalet. Got upgraded to a lake view room once – woke up to moose grazing shore. Worth it if you book 13 months ahead.
Granite Park Chalet ($150/bunk): Backcountry lodge on Highline Trail. No electricity or showers. Dinner costs extra ($25 pasta bowl). But eating stew on that deck at sunset? Magic.
Secrets for Each Season
Glacier transforms radically. I've been snowed on in July and sunburned in October.
Summer (June-Aug)
All roads/trails open but packed. July weekends feel like Times Square. Hidden perk? Ranger-led activities like "Glacier Geology Walks" (free).
Fall (Sept-Oct)
My secret season. Larches turn gold in late September. Many lodges close by 9/15 but campgrounds stay open. Caught Grinnell Glacier trail empty last October 3rd.
Winter (Nov-Apr)
Going-to-the-Sun Road closes at Lake McDonald Lodge. Snowshoeing to Avalanche Lake? Silent and surreal. Rent gear from Glacier Outfitters ($20/day).
Essential Trip-Planning Intel
Glacier will wreck you without prep. These aren't suggestions – they're survival tactics.
- Park Entry: $35 vehicle pass (good 7 days). America the Beautiful Pass ($80) covers all national parks.
- Vehicle Reservations: Required May 24-Sept 8 for Going-to-the-Sun Road (recreation.gov). Book when released 120 days ahead at 8am MT.
- Service Road: None. Download offline maps (Gaia GPS app). Last cell signal is usually at Apgar.
- Bear Country Rules: Never hike alone. Carry spray. Store food in lockers or bear canisters ($3/day rental).
Food Reality: Park restaurants are overpriced and mediocre. Pack picnic supplies from Glacier Distilling Company in Coram (best jerky) and Wheat Montana in Kalispell (sandwich fixings).
What to Do in Glacier National Park: Your Burning Questions
People always corner me with these after I mention Glacier trips:
Can I see glaciers without hiking 10 miles?
Jackson Glacier Overlook from Going-to-the-Sun Road requires zero walking. Grinnell Glacier viewpoint is a strenuous hike but boat-shuttle cuts distance to 7 miles.
Is one day enough for Glacier?
Better than nothing. Drive Going-to-the-Sun Road at dawn, hike Hidden Lake Overlook, spot wildlife at Logan Pass. You'll get the postcard highlights.
Where should I stay outside the park?
West Entrance: Apgar Village Lodge (basic but walkable) or Glacier Guides Lodge (upside: hot tub). East Entrance: St. Mary Village (closest to Logan Pass) or Rising Sun Motor Inn (retro vibes).
Can I bring my dog?
Dogs are banned from trails, buildings, and shuttle buses. Only allowed in parking lots, campgrounds, and paved roads (leashed). Not ideal for Fido vacations.
What's overrated?
Lake McDonald Lodge dining room – slow service, $28 burgers. Drive 20 mins to Polebridge Mercantile instead for huckleberry bear claws. Logan Pass at noon in July – pure chaos.
Final Reality Check
Glacier demands flexibility. That perfect hike might close for bears. Rain might cancel your boat tour. But last September, I got caught in a hailstorm on Highline Trail – rainbow arched over the valley while we shivered laughing. Those unplanned moments? That's the real what to do in Glacier National Park.
Bring your patience, your layers, and your sense of wonder. And seriously – don't forget the bear spray.
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