Look, I used to think hair types were just marketing nonsense. Then I bleached my fine hair into straw and wondered why Olaplex didn't magically fix it. Turns out, knowing your actual hair type changes everything. It stops you wasting $50 on products that sit unused in your shower. If you've ever wondered why that viral TikTok hair hack made you look like a poodle, this guide's for you.
Why Bother Learning Your Hair Type?
Hair typing isn't some beauty industry conspiracy. When I finally understood my low-porosity curls, I stopped fighting them with heavy butters. Suddenly my hair looked... intentional. Here's what changes when you learn how to find your hair type:
- No more product graveyard: Stop buying shampoos that turn your scalp into the Sahara
- Realistic expectations: That beach-wave perm? Might look stunning on coarse hair but tragic on fine strands
- Damage control: High-porosity hair needs protein like I need coffee – daily
- Time savings (seriously): My routine went from 45 mins to 15 after I nailed my type
The 4 Hair Factors You Can't Ignore
Forget those "are you 2A or 3C?" quizzes. Real hair typing needs four factors. Miss one and you're flying blind.
Hair Texture (The Strand Thickness)
Not about curl pattern! This is your individual strand's width. I made the mistake of thinking my frizz meant coarse hair. Nope.
| Texture Type | How to Check | Reacts Badly To | Loves |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine (like sewing thread) | Disappears when rolled between fingers | Heavy oils, over-conditioning | Mousse, sea salt spray |
| Medium (like cotton thread) | Visible but not thick. Most common type | Silicone buildup | Lightweight creams |
| Coarse (like fishing line) | Feels wiry. Hard to flatten | Alcohol-heavy products | Shea butter, thick masks |
Hair Density (How Many Strands Per Square Inch)
Density ≠ thickness! My friend with lion-mane density has fine strands. Confusing, right?
The Part Test: Make a center part. If you see >1cm of scalp, that's low density. Less than 0.5cm? High density. Between? Medium. (Note: This fails with blonde hair – use the ponytail method instead)
Hair Porosity (Your Hair's Sponge Level)
This changed my life. Porosity determines if your hair drinks moisture or repels it like my cat repels baths.
| Porosity Type | The Float Test Result | Behavior | Product Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low | Hair floats for 5+ minutes | Products sit on hair, hard to dye | Heat-activated conditioners |
| Medium | Hair sinks slowly (2-4 min) | Holds styles well, takes color | Balanced protein/moisture |
| High | Sinks immediately | Soaks up product but dries fast | Leave-ins, heavy sealants |
Hair Elasticity (Your Strand's Stretchiness)
Snap a wet strand gently. Healthy hair stretches 30-50% before bouncing back. If it snaps instantly? Protein overload. Stretches like gum? Moisture overload. This test saved me from a disastrous DIY protein treatment.
Step-by-Step: How to Find Your Hair Type at Home
Do this on wash day with clean, product-free hair. I'll walk you through my kitchen-sink method.
The Texture Dry-Down
After shampooing, don't touch it! Air dry completely. Now observe:
- Straight? Lies flat with zero bend (Type 1)
- Loose waves? S-shaped at ends (Type 2)
- Spiral curls? Defined ringlets (Type 3)
- Zig-zag coils? Tight corkscrews (Type 4)
But wait – what if it's frizzy straight? Might be wavy hair treated wrong. My sister fought her waves for 20 years thinking she had "bad straight hair".
The Density Ponytail Trick
Measure your ponytail circumference:
- < 2 inches = Low density
- 2-4 inches = Medium density
- > 4 inches = High density
(Pro tip: Wet hair gives false low density! Do this dry.)
Porosity Water Test (The Real Deal)
Drop clean strands in water:
- Floats >5 min = Low porosity (mine!)
- Sinks slowly = Medium
- Plummets = High porosity
Controversial opinion: Spritz tests are useless. Hard water skews results.
Why Your Hair Type Changes (And What to Do)
Got color-treated hair? Chemically straightened? Your type isn't static. My porosity went from low to high after bleaching. Here's the cheat sheet:
| Change Trigger | What Shifts | Temporary Fix | Long-Term Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bleaching/Dyeing | Porosity ↑, Elasticity ↓ | Protein treatments | Olaplex No.3, cuticle sealer |
| Hormones (Pregnancy/Menopause) | Texture, Density | Adjust washing frequency | See trichologist after 6 months |
| Hard Water/Chlorine | Porosity ↑↑, Texture rough | Chelating shampoo | Shower filter ($40 on Amazon) |
Hair Type Care Cheat Sheet
After helping 200+ clients, here's what works for each type:
Fine + Low Porosity Hair (The "Greasy by Noon" Type)
- Wash: Clarify weekly. Skip conditioners on roots
- Style: Mousse > oil. Volumizing spray at roots
- Product red flag: Anything with "hydrating" or "oil" in name
- Hot take: Dry shampoo causes more buildup than it fixes
Coarse + High Porosity Hair (The "Drinks Product" Type)
- Wash: Co-wash between shampoos. Pre-poo with oil
- Style: LOC method (Liquid, Oil, Cream). Seal with butter
- Product MVP: Protein treatments every 2 weeks
- Warning: Humectants (glycerin) can cause frizz in dry climates
Dumb Mistakes I Made (So You Don't Have To)
Confession time from my hair journey:
- Mistake: Using coconut oil daily because "all naturals do it" → Got protein overload bumps
- Lesson: Low-porosity hair hates coconut oil. Use grapeseed instead.
- Mistake: Buying "curl cream" for my 2A waves → Weighed them into sad strings
- Lesson: Wavies need foam, not cream. Texture > curl definition.
Your Hair Type Questions Answered (No Fluff)
Can my hair be multiple types?
Absolutely. My crown is 2B, nape is 3A. Common in:
- Color-treated hair (bleached ends = higher porosity)
- Postpartum regrowth (baby hairs = finer texture)
Solution: Treat different sections differently. I condition only my porous ends.
Why does my hair type matter for cuts?
Fine hair looks scalped with blunt bobs. Coarse hair needs weight removal. My stylist charges $50 extra if you don't know your type – says it prevents meltdowns.
Do hair typing systems really help?
Andre Walker's system (1-4) is great for curl patterns but ignores porosity. I combine both for clients. Knowing how to find your hair type using multiple factors is key.
Can medications change hair type?
Blood thinners = increased shedding (density change). Accutane = Sahara-dry scalp. Track changes when starting new meds.
Is there one perfect test to determine everything?
Nope. I use 3 methods minimum before deciding. The strand test + float test + dry-down observation combo is gold.
When to Throw This Guide Away (Seriously)
If you have:
- Scalp psoriasis/eczema (treat scalp first)
- Alopecia areata (see dermatologist ASAP)
- Chemical burns from relaxers (stop everything, heal barrier)
Hair typing assumes healthy strands. Damage trumps type. Fix structural issues first.
Look, nobody nails this overnight. I spent 3 months thinking I had high-porosity hair because I misunderstood the float test. Start with one factor – maybe porosity – and build from there. When you truly understand how to find your hair type, it stops feeling like chemistry homework and starts feeling like a cheat code.
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