Let's be honest - staring at standing water in your shower because of a clogged drain is downright annoying. And when plunging or chemical cleaners fail, you realize you might actually need to pull out that shower drain. Sounds messy? It can be if you wing it. I learned this the hard way years ago when I mangled my first bathroom drain flange thinking I could just pry it out. Big mistake. Huge. Ended up costing me way more than just calling a pro in the first place.
But after doing this successfully (and messing it up a few times) on several different types of drains in old houses and new apartments, I can tell you exactly how to pull out a shower drain without causing a flood or needing a drywall repair. The trick? Knowing what you're dealing with before you start twisting or prying.
Is Pulling the Drain Necessary? When DIY Makes Sense
Hold up before you grab the tools. Pulling the drain is serious surgery for your shower.
- You have a stubborn clog deep in the P-trap that snaking can't reach.
- The drain flange is damaged (cracks, corrosion, stripped threads).
- You're replacing the entire shower base.
- Renovating the bathroom floor underneath.
If it's just a slow drain? Try a good manual drain snake first (around $25-$50). Pulling the drain is overkill for hair gunk near the surface. Trust me, the hassle of reinstalling and resealing properly isn't worth it for minor clogs.
The Essential Tools You Absolutely Need
Don't be like me that first time - scrambling mid-job because I only had a flathead screwdriver. Getting the right tools makes all the difference when you're trying to pull out a shower drain. Here’s the real-world list:
| Tool | Purpose | Cheap Alternative? | My Experience |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shower Drain Extractor Tool (e.g., Oatey, Husky) | Grips & twists the drain body internally. | No - this is essential. | The $25 Oatey kit saved me multiple times. |
| Channel Lock Pliers (12" or larger) | Turning the extractor; gripping pipes. | Pipe wrench (awkward). | Go big. Cheap ones slip. |
| Flathead & Phillips Screwdrivers | Removing overflow plate screws. | Maybe a butter knife? (Not advised). | Stripped screws are pure agony. |
| Hacksaw / Mini Saw | Cutting stubborn metal drains. | Oscillating tool (costly). | Wear goggles! Metal flakes hurt. |
| Putty Knife / Scraper | Cleaning old putty/plumber's putty. | Old credit card (works surprisingly ok). | Don't scratch the shower base. |
| Plumber's Putty / Silicone | Resealing the new drain flange. | None. Use the right sealant. | Silicone lasts longer than putty. |
| Bucket & Towels | Water containment. Expect leaks. | Big bowl, lots of rags. | You'll spill. Everything. |
Seriously, skip the cheap plastic extractors. I wasted $10 on one that snapped instantly on an old brass drain. The metal Oatey one? Worth every penny. And channel locks? Mine are basically welded to my hand during plumbing jobs.
Know Your Enemy: Identifying Your Drain Type
This is CRITICAL. Trying to pull out a shower drain without knowing its type is like trying to pick a lock blindfolded.
Common Shower Drain Types
| Drain Type | Identifying Features | Difficulty to Remove | Tools Needed | Sneaky Trap |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Screw-In (Modern PVC) | Visible crossbar or slots inside the drain hole. | Easy (if not glued) | Drain key, screwdriver, channel locks | Often glued with PVC cement at the pipe joint UNDER the shower base. |
| Strainer & Locknut (Older Metal) | Visible screws or bolts around the flange edge. Rust common. | Moderate to Hard | Screwdriver, extractor tool, penetrating oil, hacksaw | Locknut under the shower base is often corroded solid. Nightmare fuel. |
| Glued PVC | No visible screws/slots. Smooth flange. | Very Hard / Destructive | Hacksaw, chisel, replacement drain parts | It's solvent-welded. Cutting is usually the only option. |
How to tell? Shine a flashlight down the drain. See screws or slots? Probably screw-in. See bolts around the rim? Strainer & locknut. Smooth and featureless? Likely glued. My last house had that glued PVC type. What a pain. Had to carefully cut it out section by section.
Step-by-Step Drain Removal (For Screw-In & Strainer Types)
Alright, let's get dirty. Here’s the real-deal process for how to pull out a shower drain that isn't glued:
Cutting Water & Prep
Shut off the water main. Seriously. Don't rely on shower valves. Water in pipes can still siphon and surprise you.
Clear the drain grate. Unscrew any visible screws holding the strainer or crossbar. Lift it out.
Dry the drain hole THOROUGHLY inside. The extractor needs dry metal to grip.
Engaging the Extractor Tool
Insert the shower drain extractor tool into the drain body. Twist it clockwise (YES, clockwise!) until it bites hard into the sides. Feels tight? Good. If it spins freely, it's not gripped. Try a larger size or tap it gently with a hammer to set the teeth. Sometimes I wedge a rag around it for extra grip. Use your big channel locks on the extractor tool's shaft. Apply steady, firm pressure COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to break the drain body loose.
Heard a crack? Stopped moving? Don't panic. Apply penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) around the flange seam. Wait 15-30 mins. Try again. Gentle heat (hair dryer, NOT torch!) on the surrounding metal can help too. If it absolutely won't budge, you might be facing...
The Dreaded Locknut Underneath (Strainer Type)
This is where it gets fun (/sarcasm). You might need access from below.
- Access Panel? Check behind an adjacent wall or ceiling below. Got one? Lucky.
- No Access? Time to consider cutting an access panel yourself (drywall saw needed) or... extreme measures.
If accessing from below:
- Find the large locknut securing the drain body to the bottom of the shower pan.
- Soak it in penetrating oil. Let it sit.
- Use large channel locks or a pipe wrench to turn the locknut COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Brace the drain body above.
No access and stuck? You might have to resort to cutting the drain body from above with a hacksaw blade (careful not to cut the shower base!) or an oscillating tool. Cut vertically through the drain body in 2-3 places (like slicing a pie), then collapse the pieces inward with pliers. Tedious, but works.
Dealing With Glued PVC Drains (The Hard Truth)
Want the bad news? You can't truly "pull out" a solvent-welded PVC drain non-destructively. The solvent weld fuses the pipe and fitting into one solid piece. Here's the reality:
Step 1: Cut the visible drain flange. Use a hacksaw blade (inserted vertically) or oscillating tool with metal-cutting blade. Cut as low as possible without damaging the shower base.
Step 2: Remove the remnant. Carefully chip away the remaining glued PVC pipe stub inside the shower base drain hole using a chisel or screwdriver. Be incredibly gentle to avoid cracking the shower pan. This part sucks. It took me nearly an hour once.
Step 3: Install a NEW drain. You'll need a shower drain kit designed for replacement, often with a rubber compression gasket (like Oatey's No-Caulk Shower Drain). Clean the opening meticulously. Follow the new drain's instructions EXACTLY.
Secrets to Resealing (Avoid Leaks Like the Plague)
Installing the new or cleaned drain? Resealing is non-negotiable. Leaks here cause rot, mold, and epic damage downstairs.
| Sealant Type | Best For | Pros | Cons | My Preference |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plumber's Putty | Screw-in drains with large flange contact area. | Easy cleanup, moldable, cheap. | Can stain porous stone, may dry out over time. | Great for standard tile/acrylic. |
| 100% Silicone Sealant | PVC drains, uneven surfaces, stone showers. | Flexible, waterproof, long-lasting, good adhesion. | Messy, harder cleanup, needs cure time. | My go-to for longevity. |
| Butyl Rubber Gasket | No-caulk drains (included in kit). | Clean, instant seal, no mess. | Relies on perfect compression; can fail if overtightened. | Use only if included with drain kit. |
Application Crucials:
- Clean Surfaces PERFECTLY: Remove ALL old putty, silicone, grime. Rubbing alcohol works.
- Generous Application: Make a continuous "rope" of putty or a smooth bead of silicone under the flange. No gaps!
- Even Tightening: Hand-tighten the locknut or drain body first. Then, snug it down evenly across points (like tightening a car tire) with channel locks – do not overtighten! Cracking the shower base is a disaster. You feel firm resistance? Stop.
- Clean Excess IMMEDIATELY: Wipe away squeezed-out putty or silicone with a finger or rag dampened with rubbing alcohol (for silicone).
I learned the hard way: skimp on putty or rush tightening, and you'll get a slow leak that ruins the ceiling below. Took $1200 to fix that lesson.
Cost Reality Check: DIY vs. Pro
Thinking of calling a plumber? Here's the comparison based on real quotes and my own receipts:
| Cost Component | DIY Cost Range | Pro Plumber Cost Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic Tools (if buying) | $40 - $120 | $0 (you own them) | Extractor, Pliers, Putty, etc. One-time cost. |
| Standard Replacement Drain | $15 - $40 | $50 - $120 (parts markup) | Basic brass or PVC. |
| Labor | $0 (your time) | $150 - $450+ | 1-3 hours labor. Higher for glued drains or no access. |
| Potential Hidden Costs | Damaged shower pan ($500-$5000+ repair), Water damage repair. | Usually covered by their insurance (verify!). | DIY mishaps get expensive FAST. |
| Total (Typical Screw-In Drain) | $25 - $60 | $200 - $600+ | DIY saves big on simple jobs. |
| Total (Glued PVC/Stuck Drain) | $50 - $100 + RISK | $350 - $800+ | DIY risk/reward calculation needed. |
My take? If it's a standard screw-in drain and you have any DIY confidence, pulling out a shower drain yourself saves hundreds. Glued PVC or a drain in a tile shower pan? Unless you're experienced, get quotes. That risk column is real.
Nightmare Scenarios & How to Handle Them
Murphy's Law loves plumbing. Here's how to handle common disasters when you pull out a shower drain:
- Stripped Drain Grip Points: Extractor won't bite? Try jamming a thick flathead screwdriver diagonally across the drain opening and twisting with channel locks. Or use a large pipe nipple (threaded on both ends) that fits snugly inside the drain body and weld/epoxy it in temporarily to twist.
- Broken Pipe Underneath: Twisted too hard and heard a crack? Shut off water IMMEDIATELY. Access below if possible to assess. You might need to cut out and replace a section of drain pipe. PVC is DIY-able; copper/solder needs skills.
- Cracked Shower Base: Worst-case. Stop work. Dry everything ASAP. Permanent fix depends on material (epoxy for acrylic, patching for tile/mortar). Often requires professional refinishing or pan replacement ($$$). Prevention is key: avoid excessive force!
- Corroded Locknut Won't Budge: Penetrating oil + heat (carefully!) + impact. Tap the locknut edges sharply with a hammer and chisel or use an impact wrench on the drain tool from above if possible. As absolute last resort, carefully cut the locknut off with a Dremel or oscillating tool.
The Big FAQs: Answering Your "How to Pull Out a Shower Drain" Questions
Do I really need a special extractor tool?
For screw-in drains, absolutely yes. Pliers or screwdrivers on the crossbar usually just strip it or break it off, making removal much harder. The $25-$40 investment pays for itself instantly. Trying to pull out a shower drain without the right tool is like trying to eat soup with a fork.
Can I pull the drain without accessing underneath?
Often yes, if it's a screw-in type and not excessively corroded or glued. A good extractor tool works from above. Strainer-type drains with a locknut underneath are much harder without access. Glued PVC drains require destructive cutting from above.
My drain is spinning but won't come out! Why?
This usually means the drain body has detached from the pipe below, but the putty/sealant is holding the flange glued down. Keep turning counter-clockwise while applying gentle upward pressure with a flat bar under the flange edge (carefully!). Clean the edge well first. If it's spinning freely forever, the pipe connection below might be broken, requiring access underneath to fix.
Water leaked after I reinstalled! What now?
First, don't panic. Tighten the locknut or drain body a little more UNDERNEATH (if accessible) - but cautiously! Overtightening cracks the pan. If tightening doesn't stop it, or you can't access below, you must remove the drain again, clean off ALL the old sealant meticulously, and reapply a generous new bead of 100% silicone before reinstalling. Skipping the cleaning step is why leaks persist.
Can I reuse my old drain?
Maybe, if it's in perfect condition. Clean it thoroughly inside and out. Remove ALL old putty/silicone. Check threads for damage. Inspect for cracks or corrosion. Brass drains clean up well; cheap pot metal ones often corrode. If it looks rough or the threads are questionable, spend the $20 on a new one. Reinstalling a faulty drain guarantees a callback.
Pulling a shower drain isn't glamorous plumbing, but it's totally doable with patience and the right approach. Knowing exactly how to pull out a shower drain for your specific type is 90% of the battle. Don't force it, clean everything obsessively during reinstall, and if it feels way over your head, swallow your pride and call a good plumber. Saving $200 isn't worth $2000 in water damage. Happy (and dry) plumbing!
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