Okay, let's cut straight to it – Genoa gets overlooked. Everyone races to Rome or Florence and misses this crazy-beautiful port city with its tangled medieval alleys and killer seafood. I've lived here three years and still discover new corners. Forget those generic "top 10" lists. This is the real stuff locals actually do, with all the nitty-gritty details you need. Parking nightmares? I'll warn you. Tourist traps? I'll steer you clear. Let's dive into the best things to do in Genoa.
Get Lost in Europe's Largest Medieval Maze
Genoa's old town isn't just historic – it's a full-on sensory bombardment. We call the alleyways "caruggi," and trust me, GPS gives up here. That's the fun. Start at Piazza De Ferrari (the main square with the big fountain) and just wander. You'll pass centuries-old bakeries with focaccia steaming in the windows, hidden piazzas where old men argue over chess, and laundry strung five stories high. Don't panic if you hit a dead end; backtracking is part of the adventure.
| Must-See Spot | Address | Hours | Cost | Why It's Cool |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| San Lorenzo Cathedral | Piazza San Lorenzo | 8am-12pm, 3pm-7pm | Free (Treasury €6) | That black-and-white striped facade hides a cannonball from 1687 still lodged in the wall |
| Via Garibaldi Palaces | Via Garibaldi | Varies by palace | €10-15 each or €28 combo ticket | UNESCO World Heritage - peek into insane aristocratic wealth at Palazzo Rosso |
| Campopisano Square | Piazza Campopisano | Always open | Free | Feels like a movie set - irregular shape, uneven paving, pure medieval vibes |
Saw a tiny shop selling just wooden screws? That's Pietro Macchiavelli (Salita della Pollaiuola 7), crafting them since 1880. Smell fried fish? Follow it to Antica Friggitoria Carega (Via San Bernardo 32R) - get a paper cone of mixed fried seafood for €5. Cash only. Wear comfy shoes – the cobbles are brutal after three hours.
Caruggi Golden Rules:
- Morning is magic: Arrive before 10am to have the alleys to yourself before cruise crowds hit
- Watch your bag: Pickpockets work busy streets like Via XXV Aprile. Use crossbody bags zipped shut
- Look up: Frescoes and carved portals hide above street-level clutter
I once got hopelessly lost near Vico della Casana and stumbled upon a tiny puppet theater doing a show for four kids. That's Genoa. No plan often beats the perfect itinerary.
Food Adventures (Beyond Just Pesto)
Yeah, pesto was invented here. You HAVE to try it fresh. But Genoa's food scene goes way deeper. The secret? Follow the locals at lunchtime.
Lunchtime bustle tells you everything. If you see construction workers and shopkeepers lined up, it's legit. My top spots:
- Savour the Sandwich: Panificio Mario (Via San Vincenzo 64) makes focaccia di Recco – thin, crispy, filled with stracchino cheese. €3.50. Open 7am-8pm. Get there early or they sell out.
- Pasta Perfection: Trattoria da Maria (Vico Testadoro 14R) looks chaotic (because it is). Heaping plates of trofie al pesto or walnut sauce. €12-15. Cash only. No reservations. Go at 12:15 sharp.
- Fish Feasts: Il Marin (Via della Maddalena 73R) has tanks of live seafood. Try buridda (fish stew) or stuffed squid. Expect €25-35/person. Closed Mondays.
Pesto Reality Check: Many tourist restaurants use pre-made stuff. Real Genoese pesto is bright green, not oily, made with basil from Pra'. Ask "È fatto fresco oggi?" (Is it made fresh today?). If they hesitate, walk out.
Secrets of the Old Market
Mercato Orientale (Via XX Settembre) isn't just groceries – it's lunch central. Wander the stalls:
| Stall Name | What to Get | Price | Hours |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pasta Fresca di Anna | Fresh pasta ribbons to cook later | €8-12/kg | 7am-1:30pm |
| Gepi's Focaccia | Olive oil-drenched focaccia slices | €2.50/slice | 8am-2pm |
| Da Vittorio | Standing lunch - fried anchovies, farinata (chickpea pancake) | €3-7 | 10am-3pm |
Grab food, find a bench outside. Watch nonnas haggle over artichokes. That's living like a local.
Waterfront Wonders & Coastal Views
Genoa revolves around its port. The modern aquarium (Ponte Spinola) gets crowds (€29, book online), but I prefer the gritty history. Galata Maritime Museum (Calata de Mari 1) is brilliant – you board a submarine! (€17, open 10am-7:30pm).
But the real icon? The Lanterna. That striped lighthouse has guided ships since 1128. Walking there takes 40 minutes from Piazza Caricamento through active docks – wear closed shoes. The view from the base is free. Climbing it (€8, weekends only) is 172 steps up. Worth it on clear days.
Getting Above It All
Genoa's hills give knockout views. Skip the elevator at Spianata Castelletto – it's €1.20 for a 30-second ride. Instead:
- Funicular Zecca-Righi: Catch it at Piazza del Portello. €1.50. Top station has panoramic views across red rooftops to sea. Hike down through parks.
- Nervi Cliff Walks: Take train to Nervi (10 mins, €1.80). The Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi is a cliffside path over turquoise water. Feels like Cinque Terre without crowds.
Sunset tip: Grab wine and cheese from Eataly (Via Sottoripa). Sit on the stones at Porto Antico's Molo Vecchio (Old Pier). Watch the Lanterna light up as boats drift past.
Palaces That Will Blow Your Mind
Genoa's rich merchant families built insane palaces. Via Garibaldi has the big names (Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco – both €10, open Tues-Fri 9am-7pm). But my favorite is off-radar: Palazzo Reale (Via Balbi 10). €6. Open Tues-Sat 9am-6:30pm. Why go? The Hall of Mirrors rivals Versailles. Plus, they let you wander freely – no velvet ropes. Felt like sneaking into a duke's private home.
Palace-Hopping Hacks:
- Rolli Days: Twice yearly (usually May/Oct), normally closed palaces open free. Massive crowds but unique access.
- Combined Ticket: €28 gets 24-hour entry to Palazzo Rosso, Bianco, Doria Tursi & modern art museum. Worth it for serious art fans.
- Hidden Gem: Palazzo Spinola (Piazza Pellicceria 1) - intact 17th-century home with Van Dyck paintings. €8. Often quieter.
Saw a wedding party taking photos inside Palazzo Reale last summer. Bride's train sweeping those marble stairs... unreal backdrop. Even if palaces aren't your thing, peek into at least one courtyard. The wealth here once bankrolled empires.
Day Trips That Actually Work
Genoa's location is perfect for quick escapes. Skip the overhyped Portofino unless you love designer shops. Try these instead:
| Destination | How to Get There | Travel Time | Why Go | Cost (Return) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Camogli | Train from Genoa Brignole | 25 mins | Colorful fishing village, less crowded, great swimming | €4.50 |
| Boccadasse | Bus #31 from Brignole | 15 mins | Genoa's "Little Cinque Terre" - gelato by the sea | €1.50 bus ticket |
| Portovenere | Ferry from Porto Antico | 1hr 45min | Dramatic cliffs, Byron's Grotto, less hectic than Cinque Terre | €32 |
Honestly? My best day trip was staying put. Rented a kayak at Bagni Onda (Corso Italia) (€15/hour) and paddled along the city coastline. Seeing the Lanterna from the water at golden hour? Magic.
Survival Tips They Don't Tell You
- Transport: Metro is useless for tourists. Buses cover everything. Buy tickets at tobacconists (€1.70/100 mins). Validate ON BOARD.
- Pickpockets: Worst on crowded buses (#18, #20) and Brignole station stairs. Wear backpacks on front in dense crowds.
- Restaurant Scams: Always check menu prices before sitting. "Cover charges" (coperto) over €3/person are ripoffs. Walk away.
- Language: Learn five phrases: Buongiorno, Grazie, Quanto costa? Dov'è il bagno? Un caffè per favore. Locals appreciate the effort.
I learned the hard way about parking. Left my rental near Porto Soprano... €75 ticket. Use guarded lots like Parking Genova Centro (Via Brigate Partigiane) - €25/day but safe.
FAQs: Things to Do in Genoa You Actually Wondered
Is Genoa safe at night?
The historic center stays lively until about 11pm with people dining. Stick to main streets like Via San Lorenzo. Avoid empty alleys after dark. Porto Antico is well-lit and feels safe.
Can I see Genoa in one day?
You'll get a taste: Hit Piazza De Ferrari, duck into San Lorenzo Cathedral, wander Via Garibaldi, grab focaccia at Panificio Mario, see the port. But you'll miss the depth. Two days minimum.
What's overrated?
The Christopher Columbus House (Casa di Colombo). It's mostly reconstructed. And elevator rides to viewpoints charging €5+ for views you can get free elsewhere.
Best gelato?
Gelateria Profumo (Via del Portello 52) - pistachio is insane. Or Grom (multiple locations) for reliable quality. Avoid colorful mounds in tourist zones – real gelato isn't bright blue.
Rainy day options?
Galata Maritime Museum eats hours. Palazzo Reale has vast rooms to explore. Or join a pesto-making class at Il Genovese (Via San Bernardo 43) (€45, book ahead).
When NOT to come?
August. Many family-run trattorias close, it's humid, and beaches overflow. Late April-June or September-October are perfect.
Where to stay?
Old Town for atmosphere (but noisy – bring earplugs). Carignano district for quieter elegance near Via Garibaldi. Avoid areas around Brignole station at night.
Public restrooms?
Scarce. Use museums/cafes. Buy a €1 espresso at any bar – bathroom code comes with it. Worth every cent.
Look, Genoa isn't polished like Florence. It's layered – gritty port meets golden palaces. You might get lost. Your shoes might get dirty. That alley might smell faintly of fish and diesel. But wander past midnight when the cruise crowds vanish... hear waves slap the docks... see moonlit palazzos... that's when Genoa grabs you. It gets under your skin. Forget checking boxes. Just show up hungry, curious, and wearing decent walking shoes. The best things to do in Genoa often start with getting deliberately lost. Buon viaggio.
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